As the Metro Rolls By.



Once upon a time sometime in 1150 BC ... Somewhere in central Asia, a baby boy was born to a Turkmenish couple of the Aybak tribe in Afghanistan, Central Asia. This little boy, in all likelihood, like most little boys was his mother’s darling and grandmothers pet. Perhaps he was a playful prankster or maybe he was an introspective little soul. 


One day, while still in his childhood this little boy was abducted and captured by the marauders, and put up for sale in a distant slave market. On that day it so happened, that the chief Qazi of Nishapur was passing by a slave market and saw the little boy up for sale and bought him. He took him home and both he and his wife brought him up along with their own sons, like a son. The good Qazi educated him and trained him well in martial arts as well. Moreover, he developed a skilled horsemanship.


But then came a day the old Qazi died. The fortunes once more changed for the young slave. He was sold again to a slave merchant by the old Qazi’s son. But then again this young man was destiny’s protégé, and fate this time took this slave to a warlord Mohammed Ghori, and he went on to become, the ‘Slave general’ of this Ghori army. Not only that, it can be said that waggishness of fate unravelled greatest military successes for this Slave boy as the much feted Slave-General while he was under the direct tutelage of Sultan Ghori for guidance and leadership. Accordingly, this was the biography of Qutb-ud-din Aybak as of then, and he was in-charge for expansion and consolidation of Sultan Ghori's conquests in most of northern India.

Not too far ahead in time he was be appointed as his viceroy to Delhi.

After Sultan Ghori’s death, this slave the boy from the Aybak tribe became the Sultan Qutb-ud-din Aybak, and was the founder of the ‘Slave dynasty’ and Delhi Sultanate in India.


It seems he was also fondly acknowledged as Lakh Baksh in short because he was a most generous patron and donor. It was with his special kind of resourcefulness that brought to fore in his charities for the poor to help them along.


He was a patron for the architectural excellence and art and is known to have erected some monumental stone buildings in Delhi and elsewhere. As a tribute to powerful military leadership and victorious conquests, Qutub Minar a tall tower of masonry was begun by him, nevertheless   he never got to complete it.
This tower of victory was completed by his successor.

In some ways, could we just say that Qutb-ud-din Aybak may possibly be the thirteenth century’s  ‘the slave dog’ millionaire story.

Chaugan
Qutb-ud-Din died accidentally in 1210. While he was playing a game of ‘Chaugan’ on horses and sticks running the ball on to four corners, quite akin to Polo. His horse lurched and Qutb-ud-din was impaled on the pommel of his saddle. He was buried near the Anarkali Bazaar in Lahore.

Death of Sultan Qutub ud Din    and    the  Mausoleum in Lahore
  

Shams-ud-Din Iltutmish, another ex-slave of Turkic ancestry who was married to Qutb-ud-din's daughter succeeded him as Sultan of Delhi and continued to complete the vision of his projects

Qutub Minar, Delhi’s most imposing monument stands tall even today as a sentinel of history. It has seen centuries slip through under its watch, and by and by Mehrauli the city, became Mehrauli a suburb of Delhi. Last few decades have seen Delhi become a huge heaving metropolis, with an influx of humanity from all over India.


Today, on this hot summer day of 2010, Qutub Minar again silently stood witness to a history of sorts being made from its imposing heights... Metro, an icon of modern Delhi quietly slipped out from the underground on to its elevated columns to meander through citadels of glass and ancient monuments.

First Metro cars on elevated Qutub Line

An interesting paradox but do imagine, just imagine, if this slave boy from a remote Aybak tribe of Central Asia, born in  the  12th century, the Sultan of Delhi were to appear and look around and to see his much changed lost kingdom, 'The Sultanate of Delhi'.

What would he see, what would he be thinking?

Imaginably what he saw would be an alien much changed and urbanised landscape. A vastly divergent and differing way of life… be it the language, the clothes, or the way of life of the populace. In fact, an aura totally at variance from the times of his Sultanate...His Delhi.

Where all would he go for sure?


Qutub Minar for certain it would be, after all, it was his victory tower and it still stood tall towering the lay of the land. The nearby metro would surely catch his eye,  and then it is possible that the name on the Metro signage may just intrigue him enough, and lead him on to the Qutub Metro Station.

Qutub Metro Station
So now a perplexed Qutubudin Aybak, erstwhile Sultan of Delhi would perhaps stop to think....’ Not bad ...not bad at all! Now I have an elevated Metro station named after me as well’.

He may also stop to ponder on the shared the juxtaposition in numeric of the dates after centuries, and it may resound an echo to possibly evoke memories from 1210 AD to  2010 AD.


June 21st 2010 South Delhi had its first disconnected Metro run from Qutub to Gurgaon. It has been a long wait and today we saw the 4 metro cars glide past on its elevated tracks.

Early days yet, but let’s hope that it helps ease the road traffic.

Updated in 2019

This blog was first written by me in August of 2010. It was a sudden inspiration that compelled me to put my frolicsome thoughts to blog on the momentous inaugural Metro run more or less under the shadow of Qutub Minar.


Travel back to Ghor County

It seems that Minaret of Jam in Central  Asia and its commonality with  architectural features and structure of  Sultan Qutub ud Din’s Victory Tower exists for all to see.





It was only perchance I read about this beautiful minaret, a World Heritage Site is an incredible work of architecture from 12th century. It stands 213 feet tall up in the air, as against 240 feet of Qtub Minar in Delhi. The minaret of Jam is made completely of tan baked bricks and is intricately carved with Koranic inscriptions of multiple colours.

However, the true miracle lies in its survival to date. And that itself is awesome.


For the last many decades, Afghanistan has been almost in a constant state of conflict and the war-torn fabric of the country is the reality of today. Taliban, terrorism and frightening political instability.

But that was not so centuries ago, societies flourished and left behind imprints with a story to tell.

Firozkoh, the Turquoise Mountain  was the legendary lost Afghan capital of the Middle Ages, located where the River Hari meets the River Jam.

The minaret of Jam is one of the few surviving legacies from that long lost city of the Turquoise Mountain, It was once part of a great mosque along the riverbank, several indications of structures and a huge courtyard have also been found near the site.

Firozkoh was reputed to be one of the greatest urban civilizations of its time, and a bastion of tolerance, where all religions were acknowledged in this seat of learning. 
It remains as a lasting legacy of the period in which Jews, Christians, and Muslims lived side-by-side in harmony, united by their commonalities rather than divided by their differences.

This lost city perished during Mongol invasions  Ögedei Khan, son of Genghis Khan, destroyed the capital i in the early 13th century. Conceivably, only the minaret stood as a mute witness of this obliteration of history.

After staying intact for 1000 years, the minaret still faces threats from war perils today, and the harsh climate of Afghanistan. The Minaret of Jam is also currently listed as a site in danger, and many fear that another harsh winter or earthquake could topple the only legacy of the city of Turquoise Mountain of Ghorid Empire from the Ghor Province of Central Asia.


However, we can celebrate this cross-cultural architectural bridge as it still survives as a testimony between Qutub Minar of the Delhi Sultanate with Minaret of Jam of Ghor Province.





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